Great Hikes Near Jersualem

In 2014, when I was living in Spain, I published a blog called Great Hikes Near Madrid that I hoped would be useful for English-speaking hikers because almost all of the online info about hiking around Madrid was in Spanish. Four years later, that post gets more traffic, by far, than any other post on thisContinue reading “Great Hikes Near Jersualem”

The Best Job I Ever Had

My interview at the Kalamazoo Gazette was terrifying. All the editors sat around a table and role played that a terrible thing had just occurred and a shell-shocked school bus driver was the sole witness. Twenty-year-old Emily, who had just finished her sophomore year at Western Michigan University, was supposed to play the role ofContinue reading “The Best Job I Ever Had”

My Perfect Tel Aviv Day

The saying goes that Jerusalem is about 40 miles and 200 years away from Tel Aviv. So its always a welcome reprieve to drive less than one hour from the monochrome ancient city of Jerusalem and to arrive in colorful and modern Tel Aviv, with its beachy vibes, exposed butt cheeks (it’s the year ofContinue reading “My Perfect Tel Aviv Day”

Getaways to Haifa and Akko

Israel offers some great tourist spots, and they’re all pretty easy to get to being that that country is the size of New Jersey. We have just five weeks left here and we’ve checked off most of the big ones: The desert in the south, the Red Sea, the Sea of Galilee, many jaunts to nearbyContinue reading “Getaways to Haifa and Akko”

A Glimpse Into Jerusalem’s Ultra-Orthodox Neighborhoods

There are two Ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods in the center of Jerusalem – Geula and Mea Shearim – and I’ve been too nervous to venture in to them during my nearly three years in Jerusalem. Every new arrival to the city hears horror stories about unknowing motorists driving into these neighborhood during Shabbat and being met withContinue reading “A Glimpse Into Jerusalem’s Ultra-Orthodox Neighborhoods”

Eating Your Way Through Jerusalem’s Shuk

A first glance, Machane Yehuda market – or simply the “Shuk” to locals –  looks shabby, a sort of a slapdash jumble of stalls selling bright vegetables, fresh fish, dried fruits, spices and a few shops selling kippas, plastic housewares, conservative clothes, Ethiopian baskets. But don’t let the junky exterior fool you: The Shuk isContinue reading “Eating Your Way Through Jerusalem’s Shuk”

A French Writing Retreat

I have just returned from a writing retreat on a mountaintop in France. Let me just let that one sink in, so you have a chance to be like “ooh lah lah, someone think she fancy.” But, there it is. After getting a writing degree that required twice a year stays in Paris, I justContinue reading “A French Writing Retreat”

The Best Cocktails in Jerusalem

I think it’s safe to say that after two-and-a-half years in Jerusalem, I’ve tried most of the best cocktails in the city. That’s not saying a whole lot, because Jerusalem isn’t particularly known for creative cocktails and cool bars, although Tel Aviv is. We mostly drink cocktails from our own bar cart, which always featuresContinue reading “The Best Cocktails in Jerusalem”

Return to Petra and Roman Ruins in Jerash

Remember when my family visited and we had an amazing Jordanian desert adventure in Wadi Rum and Petra? Well, a few week’s ago, it was Mr. Em in Jerusalem’s family’s turn and back to Jordan we went – the land of wide open spaces, mountains, desert, camels, goats, donkeys, and ruins. This time, it wasContinue reading “Return to Petra and Roman Ruins in Jerash”

To Live in Jerusalem, Have Sharp Elbows

A few days before we left beloved Madrid, I was sitting in my favorite coffee shop attempting to order a filter coffee. I knew this place didn’t sell filter/drip/pour-over coffee, but still I liked to ask because how else will they know there’s a demand for something other than bitter espresso drinks? A guy sitting nextContinue reading “To Live in Jerusalem, Have Sharp Elbows”